The right fit

When faced with the errand of getting slacks hemmed or a dress altered, there are several details a customer should look for in a tailoring shop.

Rosie Moon, of Downtown Alterations, had several suggestions for new customers at a tailoring shop.

“At first, just bring in one item and see if you are happy with the work before you bring in your entire wardrobe,” Moon said.

Jenny Lam, owner of Alterations Unlimited in Columbia, has been in the business of alterations for more than 40 years. She suggests a way to know the quality of a newly tailored hem in your pants.

“If the new hem looks exactly like the original, then a store has done a good job,” Lam said.

Lam asks her customers what length they like or if they like their hem to be cuffed on a nice pair of slacks or dress pants.

The width and cut of the pant also makes a big difference.

“We usually measure one inch from the floor on a woman’s heel for pants,” Lam said. “It just depends on what the customer wants.”

Moon said customers should be sure to bring in shoes when having pants altered and undergarments for dresses because it can change the way the clothes fit.

Alterations stores also usually do plenty of work on formal wear such as suit jackets, tuxedos and gowns. The fittings for these items depend on what the customer wants, but the customer should ask a few questions before leaving clothing items.

One important question to ask is if the tailor actually works on the kind of material that you are wishing to have altered. Thin and delicate materials, such as muslin, are extremely fragile and often tear.

Another question to ask is if the tailor sews by hand or by machine. Certain delicate materials are too thin to withstand a sewing machine and should be altered by hand.

If a jacket or coat doesn’t fit right and the customer doesn’t know why, there are a number of things that a tailor can do to fix the appearance of the jacket. It can be taken in at the waist for a more fitted look or let out if the waist is too snug.

Many people also don’t know how long or short their sleeves should be. Moon suggests sleeves should hit about where the hand and wrist meet or maybe a little longer.

For most men, an appropriate cuff length on a suit-jacket sleeve is about a quarter of an inch shorter than the dress shirt.

“If your sleeve bothers your hand or gets in the way, then it is too long,” Moon said.