Boxed vs. ‘Best’: In search of the perfect mashed potato recipe

The idea: I like to cook, but during the week I usually only have time to pop frozen fettuccine alfredo in the microwave.

When I try a new recipe, it never comes out properly, and I’m left hungry, feeling like I’ve wasted time and money.

Skeptical of the idea of one perfect recipe for everything, I decided to put “The Best Recipe” cookbook to the test.

The chosen dish — mashed potatoes, a Thanksgiving favorite.

The process: Chefs at the test kitchen for Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country magazines, are meal researchers.

They follow a strict method — cook a dish every way possible, taste, modify and repeat until approved by a panel of tasters.

Following their cue, I whipped up their mashed potato recipe and a “control batch” of Betty Crocker Potato Buds. I chose test subjects with diverse taste buds — my roommates.

Musings: The cookbook recipe was easy to follow. Mashing the potatoes was the most difficult part because I didn’t have the large hand mill or masher the book describes. I compensated for this using a trick from grandma: an electric mixer creates a smooth, yet substantial texture.

The verdict: The cookbook recipe for mashed potatoes beat the boxed spuds, but not by much. Mashed potatoes are a nostalgic food, and my test subjects identified with creamy potatoes their mothers and grandmothers used to make.

By my standards, the dish came out not only edible but delicious. My eager volunteers must have agreed — there were no leftovers.

The Best Mashed Potatoes

2 pounds russet potatoes, scrubbed

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 cup half and half

1½ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

Directions

1. Place potatoes in a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover, about 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the potatoes are just tender when pricked with a thin-bladed knife, about 20 to 30 minutes. Drain the potatoes.

2. Peel the potatoes and cut into medium-sized pieces. Using a hand mill or masher, mash the potatoes until desired consistency.

3. Stir in the melted butter with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Gently whisk in the half and half, salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Source: “The New Best Recipe”